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Preservation is a challenge

Freshness is a challenge when it comes to selling and transporting fish and other seafood.

Some have learned the hard way that marine products deteriorate rapidly. Fortunately, preservation and processing techniques are available.

Before the arrival of freezing systems, fish such as the popular cod were salted and dried. This transformation enabled transport between continents, which could sometimes take several months.

Even today, processing, whether brining, drying, smoking or freezing, ensures a longer shelf life for seafood products.

Innovations such as refrigeration, freezing and canning represent crucial advances in food processing, preservation and consumer experience.

Although the freshness of a seafood product is unrivalled, being able to eat our favourite products all year round remains an undeniable advantage.

Evolution of processing type for fish and seafood, on the basis of the volume sold in Quebec supermarkets, from 2015 to 2020.

Diagramme en barre, les années sur l’axe horizontal, les pourcentages sur l’axe vertical. Le frais passe progressivement de 52 % en 2015 à 42 % en 2020, le surgelé, de 30 % en 2015 à 38 % en 2020 et les produits en conserve, de 18 % en 2015 à 20 % en 2020.
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Frozen seafood products account for a growing share of supermarket sales.
Source: Statistics Canada, MAPAQ, 2021
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Once caught, what happens to our St. Lawrence species?
Smoked, dried, frozen or simply fresh…
Three people from the seafood processing industry share with us their processes and know-how.

Information

Video length: 8 minutes and 54 seconds

Location and shooting date Gaspé peninsula, 2022 and Magdalen Islands, 2023

Excerpts from interviews conducted by: Jean-Sébastien Laliberté and Maylis Persoons, Exploramer museologists

Videographer and editor: Guillaume Lévesque, Les productions de la Morue Salée

Interviewees:

  • Benoit Arseneau, Fumoir D’antan
  • Dan Dupuis, shrimp factory boat the Émilien D
  • Simon Langlois, Les pêcheries gaspésiennes

Credit: Exploramer, 2024

Transcription

[Background music begins.]

[Shot of wooden building with Le Fumoir d’antan logo.]

Benoit Arseneau: My name is Benoit Arseneau, “Ben to Ben”.

[Shot of Benoit Arseneau, seated outside and in front of the wooden building.]

I’m co-owner of Fumoir D’antan, a business we’ve been running for 25 years.

[View of two wooden buildings, then an old photograph of the smoking chambers and back to the building with the Fumoir D’antan logo.]

So, we, what we did here was to put my grandfather’s old smokehouses back into operation.

[Back to Benoit, music stops.]

Smokehouse operator, you light your fires. Bang, bang! You do your set-up, you light them up, you watch them, everything looks fine. Good. But when your fires are going, you have to go back into your smoking chambers to see if it’s smoking well, if the fires are working well. We mustn’t forget that we’re burning fires in wooden buildings! OK? So it takes a certain amount of knowledge. You have to do the job properly.

[Close-up on Benoit’s face.]

We mustn’t forget that the technique of smoking herring is a food preservation method as old as the hills.

[Exterior views of a wooden building.]

Okay, they say that herring smoking has over 200 years of history.

[Shots of various old photographs of the smoking process.]

So, the herring is soaked in brine for 48 hours. They are then removed from the brine and threaded onto wooden rods through the gills. So, we’ll put about fifteen herrings per rod. Then we hang them in the smokehouse, and we smoke all of that for 60 to 90 days.

[View of a wooden door and of a photograph showing the interior of the smoking chamber.]

So, for 2 to 3 months, we’ll be stoking our fires right here on the floor of the building. Depending on whether it’s more humid or less humid, we’ll fiddle a bit with the fire, depending on the intensity of the smoke. Then we’ll let them dry like that for 2 to 3 months. Then, after 3 months, the herring will have taken on an amber color and will be a little harder.

[Shot of an exterior wooden window opening and herrings hanging inside.]

We’ll have lost 50% of the fish’s weight through water loss. And this product will keep at room temperature. For 2 years without any problem. So it really is a preservation method.

[Back to Benoit.]

The fish are smoked whole. After that, comes the gutting stage.  So, with the knife, we cut off the head, cut off the tail, remove the belly, then simply save the two fillets from the back.

[Close-up shot of vacuum-packed fish fillets and jars of pickled herring.]

Which we’ll then sell like this or make a little marinated smoked product. And that is a delight for gourmets.
[Laughting]

[Music resumes briefly.]

[Shot of a transaction to buy a product from the Fumoir d’antan, then back to Benoit.]

In 2001, we diversified because we were getting requests for new products. So we bought this, a mechanical smoker, which works with sawdust. So, the products are the same. The products are brined or dry-salted or marinated for a certain time. After that, they’re dried, put on grids and then taken to the smoker. Then, with the mechanical smoker, we control the hygrometer … that’s the humidity in the chamber. We control the heat, the cooking and the smoke. So, these different parameters mean that we’ve set a standard for a product, and it’s going to taste the same all the time. So, it’s all going to be smoked the same way and prepared the same way. So, it’s a nice machine. It’s a great machine that allows us to try new stuff with our smoked products.

[Shot of old photographs of smoked fish.]

And now there are other projects on the way. There are other species that could be smoked.

[Back to Benoit.]

I think… With what we know, herring is getting more and more complicated. Mackerel is more and more complicated. Global warming means that other species are on the move.

[Shots of packaged products, salmon, scallops, halibut and other fish, background music resumes.]

Listen, we’re open to all kinds of ideas. Salted, smoked, dried, I think there’s a way of adding value to other species, other fish, other shellfish.

[Back to Benoit.]

All preparations, whether it’s smoked or not smoked, at some point you have to take the time to look at your product and then taste it. The textures, the health, the taste, it all has an interesting finish. That’s what makes you successful. Or that you don’t succeed in a production.

[Music intensifies, then stops.]

[Views of docked boats, then of Dan Dupuis.]

Dan Dupuis: Hi, my name is Dan Dupuis. I’m the owner, co-owner with my brother, of the Émilien D. boat.  A shrimping factory boat based in Rivière-au-Renard.

[Shot of fishing nets and buoys with a boat in the background, then of the bow of a docked boat.]

We wanted to pay tribute to our grandfather when we started the project, so we called it the Émilien D.

[Shot of Dan walking through the passages of a boat, then Dan talking, inside the boat.]

So now, we’re the third generation of fishermen in our family. We’re the only factory boat in Quebec. Of course, there are some outside of Quebec, but they’re really bigger. So we’re the only ones who can cook, freeze on board and sell directly to the markets. In just 2 hours, we go from catching to cooking to freezing. Everything is done within 2 hours, so the shrimp hasn’t been lying around anywhere. You can’t get any fresher than that on your plate.

[Shots of Dan talking, pointing to various pieces of equipment.]

Here, we start by receiving the shrimp from the outside, from the nets. It then falls here into the basin. Next, we have a separating bin that separates the small fish from the shrimp remaining in the net.

[Shot of Dan in front of a conveyor belt.]

The first triage is done here. Then it’s off to the sorter, which separates them into four different sizes.

[Different views of the sorter parts.]

There, we’ll start with the smallest and work up to the biggest. This is a sorter. In other words, it separates sizes. We’ll start like… It’s a… There are different spacings on the bars, it “shakes”. The smallest will fall here, to the biggest at the end. There’s water on this, it flows all the way to the end. Then the other three sizes, which won’t be cooked directly, go into three different basins over there.

[Back to Dan.]

And it’s always going to be in the water, because a shrimp that’s lying around, that’s not in the water, will die quickly. We’ll cook it. The tail will be straight. When you want to know if a shrimp is of good quality, the shrimp’s tail will be curved when cooked. If the tail is straight, it means it’s been cooked dead.

[Shot of Dan in front of a cooker.]

Here we see the cooker. It cooks continuously. Within 200 seconds, the shrimp comes out cooked. It is cooled with water. The cooking is stopped immediately afterwards to keep the shrimp really fresh. Then we go straight to the freezer at the other end.

[Music resumes, shot of boxes andof the storing space with Dan at the back of the hold.]

We’re in the hold. This is where we store the shrimp. We’ve just arrived with a full load of shrimp.

[Shot of frozen shrimp.]

[Shot of boats moored at dock, music stops.]

Simon Langlois: Hi, I’m Simon Langlois, co-owner of Les Pêcheries Gaspésiennes. My position in the company is Director of Operations.

[Shot of Simon Langlois, factory workers in background.]

Here at Les Pêcheries Gaspésiennes, we offer fresh, frozen, salted and dried products. We also offer smoked products. We’ll be targeting the wholesale market in grocery stores for fresh fish, and in our fish shop too. Smoked fish will be available mainly in convenience stores and retailers.

[Shot of a room filled with bins, a forklift passes by, then a view of a water tank filled with lobsters.]

This here is the receiving room. We’ll be thawing fish and storing it ready for processing.

[Shot of a man in work clothes putting lobsters into bins, then gloved hands cutting a fish on a work surface.]

[Various shots of plant workers and back to Simon, then view of fillet production line.]

We fillet them. We’ll then put them through the skinner to remove the fillet skin. Then we prepare them for packing. All varieties combined; we’re talking about 2 million pounds a year.

[Shot of Simon talking.]

These are the smokers. We’ve now had three smokers since last spring.

[Various views of the smoker, control screen then back to Simon talking then opening a smoker, view of the inside of the smoker.]

These are ultra-modern smokehouses. They clean themselves, heat, cool and dry. In the smokehouses, we smoke turbot. We’ll smoke cod, salmon, mackerel and trout. Then in the… cold, we’ll do salmon.

[Back to Simon.]

We’re talking about a day’s production time.

[Shot of tanks filled with submerged fish fillets, then Simon talking, views of fish on outdoor drying tables.]

This here, is the cod from which we removed the “nove”. After that, it was dry salted. The cod loses its water, which will create the brine. We’ll leave it in the brine for a while, remove it, and send it outside to dry.

[Music resumes, shot of a man spreading fish fillets on a drying table, outdoors.]

The process will take about 3 to 4 weeks.

[Shot of the front of a building, Les pêcheries gaspésiennes sign, a man goes inside.]

Yeah! Here’s our fresh counter. We have our marinated turbot, which is excellent.

[Close-up on fish products, then on Simon talking in the store.]

We have… at the moment, we have turbot fillet which we just processed this morning, halibut steaks, halibut fillet.

[Shot of fish steaks, scallops vacuum-packed and Simon talking.]

We’ve got a scallop fisherman too. It’s been several years since we’ve been able to get any. He started again this year. They’re beautiful fresh scallops, right from the coast here.

[Shots of various fish products, lobsters in an aquarium and other packaged products.]

In the incidental catches, we’re talking about monkfish and white hake. We’re trying to work on this so that we can put it on the markets, so that people can discover them.

[Shot of Simon talking.]

We’ve got some big challenges ahead of us, especially when it comes to supply.

[Shot of tanks containing fish fillets, then of a production line with workers.]

We always hope to have the quantity needed to have good seasons every year. Then there’s the workforce. We’ve got some great challenges ahead of us.

[Exploramer logo.]

[Background music stops.]

From the past to the present, processing has been part of our culinary traditions.

From ancestral know-how to new products, the professionals in the processing world are committed to bringing high-quality products to the tables of Quebecers.

Transformation… always a good thing?

In addition to preservation, processing can also affect a product’s flavour, nutritional content and texture.

Processing can be done in several stages, from fresh to ready-to-eat. Each processing stage adds value to the product, creates jobs, lengthens the production season and diversifies the economy; but it can also radically change the product itself.

Illustration of three processing stages starting with fresh fish: evisceration as the first processing stage, fillets as the second processing stage and ready-to-eat as the third processing stage.
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From fresh fish to ready-to-eat, the product will increase in value.
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How is algae processed?
A harvester, a researcher and a chef explain the types of processing and how these can influence the nutritional composition of seaweed. And then… how to use them in cooking!

Information

Video length: 5 minutes and 5 seconds

Location and shooting date Gaspé peninsula, 2022 and Quebec, 2023

Excerpts from interviews conducted by: Jean-Sébastien Laliberté and Maylis Persoons, Exploramer museologists

Videographer and editor: Guillaume Lévesque, Les productions de la Morue Salée

The images of Jean Soulard and Lucie Beaulieu cooking were provided by Réseau Québec Maritime.
Underwater images were provided by Antoine Nicolas.

Interviewees:

  • Antoine Nicolas, Un océan de saveurs
  • Lucie Beaulieu, Laval University
  • Jean Soulard, Chef

Credit: Exploramer, 2024

Transcription

[Musique de fond begins.]

[Shots of a diver harvesting seaweed underwater.]

Antoine Nicolas: In terms of preservation, we now work mainly with dried seaweed, especially since COVID. Because before that, we used to ship a lot of fresh seaweed. But… it keeps fresh for about 7 days, on average, if it’s picked in good condition.

[Shot of a diver swimming on the surface of the water, close to his small zodiac.]

This means that they must not have come into contact with fresh water before being taken out of the water. So, it mustn’t rain.

[Shot of Antoine Nicolas talking music stops.]

And in spring, you also have to be really careful when you take them out of the water. Because there are often layers of fresh water on the surface, which will actually kill them instantly when they go through the fresh water. So you can use the fresh water to rinse them, in fact, just before eating them, before preparing them, to remove small shells for example. It’s much easier when you’re dealing with fresh seaweed. But if not, they’ll keep for about 7 days in the fridge, preferably kept humid and protected from light. Or you can freeze and/or dry them.

[Close-up shot of two packets of dried seaweed, music resumes.]

Drying, for example, will give about 5 years of shelf life, and freezing will give between one and two years, depending on how they are frozen.

[Close-up shot of two packets of dried seaweed.]

So, these are the methods we use the most.

[Shots of a woman in a laboratory, then of a piece of laboratory equipment, then of Lucie Beaulieu speaking. Music stops.]

Lucie Beaulieu: The results of our research, particularly after the processing of the algae, whether it’s after blanching, drying or freezing, enable us to see whether the nutrients, actually, are retained in the algae. In the end, once the seaweed had been processed, would the consumer find the same benefits in his or her plate? What we’ve been able to show is that when we blanch the seaweed, for example, there’s a sort of leaching effect. This is because the seaweed is removed from the water in which it has been blanched. And so, there are minerals that will be removed as a result of this bleaching. And, as the minerals are removed, the seaweed becomes a little more concentrated in protein once dried. Other research results we’ve seen show that drying at low temperatures, around 40 – 45°C, doesn’t have much impact on nutritional composition. This is because certain compounds can be very sensitive to heat. Vitamins, for example, will break down at high temperatures.

[Close-up shot of packet of dried royal kombu seaweed.]

So, the fact of having a drying process can reduce their concentration a little.

[Music resumes, close-up shot of a pack of Herbes du pêcheur, then 4 packs of dried seaweed.]

But it’s still quite concentrated in the seaweed itself.

Jean Soulard: So obviously, the first form you’ll find is dried seaweed.

[Shot of Lucie Beaulieu, wearing a blue apron, standing in a kitchen, then of Jean Soulard and Lucie in a kitchen.]

[Music stops.]

And all you need to do with these dried seaweeds is pick them up and put them in the water.

[Jean shows Lucie some seaweed in a small bowl of water.]

Lucie: So, these here are rehydrated?

Jean: They’re hydrated. Okay, so I took the seaweed in question and put it in the water, and about 10 – 15 minutes later, the seaweed was restored.

[Shot of a plate of red seaweed with “Bacon de mer” written on it.]

It has regained its full flavor and shape and is ready to be used in recipes.

[Back to Lucie and Jean in the kitchen, then to a plate of green seaweed with “Algues Kombu” written on it.]

The other type of seaweed you’ll find is natural seaweed. So, these are fresh, you can find them on the market, frozen.

[Back to Lucie and Jean in the kitchen.]

And of course, all you have to do is defrost them. If you do get them, of course, it’s important to boil them before you start using them, to remove the first impurities. I strongly recommend this. Just blanch them, as they say, for a few minutes in boiling water and then they’re perfect.

[Jean shows a bag, shot of Lucie, then back to a wider shot of Lucie and Jean.]

After that, what we find is what we call flakes. We take dried seaweed, grind it up, and then we have flakes.

Lucie: It’s like spices.

Jean: Absolutely! The flakes give you that extra little taste, a bit like fleur de sel on food.

Lucie: So here, we don’t need to rehydrate them like the others that were rehydrated?

Jean: No, not at all. We don’t put any water.

[Jean takes a bag of spices.]

On the contrary, if you put them in dried, they’ll soak up and give their flavor. That’s important. And the last one? It’s the spices.  Seaweed spice is a blend of different things. First, dried seaweed. We put in salt, pepper, and then other ingredients, other spices.  So, seaweed spices can also be integrated into different sauces. And, again, vinaigrettes will work with that. And sometimes, to enhance things that you’ve made, seaweed spice; instead of putting salt and pepper, you’re going to use the spice that’s going to give you the perfect taste for it.

[Shot of a bowl of seaweed spices with “Épices d’algues” written on it.]

Lucie: It contains flavor enhancers.

[Music resumes.]

Jean: Exactly, that’s exactly it.

[Shot of a packet of dried green seaweed, camera movement on a close-up of dried seaweed.]

Lucie: To keep the nutrients, I’d say that drying or even freezing had little impact on the composition. A bit of degradation with drying, as I was saying, on compounds that are sensitive to heat, like antioxidants.

[Shot of Lucie talking in a kitchen.]

On the other hand, blanching, which can be interesting, even if we lose a bit of certain minerals that are good for our health, such as calcium, iron or magnesium; blanching will remove a part of the compound that, sometimes, gives a little marine taste, like iodized, that the consumer likes a little less sometimes. It all depends, tastes can evolve.

[Close-up of a packet of sea lettuce.]

So that, by removing this aspect of the marine taste, sometimes the consumer will prefer this seaweed.

[Exploramer logo and Réseau Québec Maritime logo.]

[Background music stops.]

What about algae?

The same applies to seaweed. Seaweed can be dried, blanched, processed into spices or flakes, and made into ready-to-eat products such as pesto, relish or tartar mix. And all these treatments can affect the nutrients in the finished product.

Food and much more

Marine products make excellent culinary products. But did you know that they are also a valuable resource in many other areas?

Bones, skins, viscera, carapaces and shells can become valued waste products, known as “co-products”. They are particularly valuable in the production of vitamins, medicines, cosmetics, flour, animal feed, jewellery, textiles, etc.

In Europe and North America, around 50% to 60% of seafood products are processed.

The ideal goal would be to achieve 100% recovery, which would help reduce waste and offer sound resource management.

This goal will require projects, funding, infrastructure and limitless creativity.

Bones, skin, muscles… What happens to the different parts of a fish?

Illustration couleur d'une poisson. Une partie de son flanc est ouvert et laisse transparaître ses organes internes.
The skin contains collagen, used in cosmetics, and gelatin, used in the manufacturing of pharmaceutical capsules. The skin can also be used in leather goods.
The bones become minerals, such as calcium.
Oil from viscera, heads and gonads is a good source of omega-3 oil. The proteins present in these parts can be used in the manufacturing of natural health products, fertilizers and animal feed.
Muscles become the fillets that we eat.

Seals are famous for their fur. Do you know how to make the most of seals’ other assets?

Illustration couleur d'un phoque du Groenland. Son flanc est ouvert et laisse transparâitre schématique ses organes internes.
Seal skin has long been used by the Inuit for clothing: leather, fur garments and boots. Seal skin is waterproof and insulates against the cold, making it particularly effective.
The meat can be used for cooking.
The blubber was used mainly as fuel, providing light and warmth. Today, the oil extracted from seal blubber can be used to produce omega-3 softgels.
The whiskers can be used to make flies for fishing.
The claws can be used to create ornaments or jewellery.
The bones, once cleaned and boiled, can be transformed into tools and utensils.
Although many international markets do not currently accept seal products, the innards could ultimately be used as alternative bait for other marine species such as lobster.

Carapace, eggs, organs… What happens to our crustaceans?

Illustration couleur d'une crevette nordique. Son ventre laisse transparaître de manière schématique ses organes internes.
The eggs contain lipids and carotenoids, which give them their orange colour. These elements are used in cosmetics as antioxidants and in omega-3 softgels.
Shrimp residues, such as shells, legs and antennae, can be transformed into a powder used to season sauces, soups and other dishes.
Illustration couleur d'un crabe commun. Sa carapace laisse transparaître de manière schématique ses organes internes.
The hepatopancreas and hemolymph, which is the equivalent of blood in invertebrates, contain proteins and enzymes that can be used to create meals for horticulture or animal feed.
Chitin, a molecule found in the shells of crustaceans, is used to create pharmaceutical and natural health products, such as glucosamine, a carbohydrate extracted from chitin.
Illustration couleur d'un homard américain. Sa carapace laisse transparaître de manière schématique ses organes internes.
Chitin, a molecule found in the shells of crustaceans, is used to create pharmaceutical and natural health products, such as glucosamine, a carbohydrate extracted from chitin.
The flesh is the part consumed by humans.

Muscle, mantle, shell… What are molluscs transformed into?

Illustration couleur de deux huître. Une est fermée et sa coquille est  visible. L'autre est ouverte et laisse voir sa chair.
The shells contain mother-of-pearl, which is sought after for jewellery, and also for cosmetics and natural health products. Another shell component, hydroxyapatite, is used in dentistry to make implants, among other applications.
Mollusc organs are sources of protein and lipids. These are used to create meals for horticulture and for nourishing animals.
The muscles form the flesh, which is consumed by humans.
Illustration couleur d'une main de mer palmée.
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Dulse can be used fresh…

Algae have many uses.

Raw or processed, they can be consumed by humans. Trials have also been conducted to use them as biodegradable textiles and containers.

It is, however, their extracts that are mainly used. Seaweeds contain lipids, proteins, polyphenols, alginates and other components that make their uses infinite: natural health products, cosmetics, agricultural and horticultural products, gelling agents and so on.

Dried seaweed sachet : Atlantic sea bacon.
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…and can also be processed into spices, for example.

Processing is an essential stage in the journey of species. Marine products are absolute treasures. Let’s make the most of them by using 100% of what they offer.

Processing means a longer shelf life. And with longer preservation comes increased distribution. Yes, but… where do our seafood products go?

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